Alright.

My computer currently right now is the 2.4 ghz model of the Penryn Macbook with 4 gigs of ram and 10.6.6 installed on it.


I have not really had that many issues with this computer ever. There is however one issue right now that is downright insufferable. Almost all the time, the computer has a difficult time connecting to the router. It commonly forgets which router is my preferred connection, the password to that router, and when I type it in and enter it will read connection timeout. I have held the key for up to 5 minutes trying to get the connection to work.

I have researched this and saw that this problem was pretty big with people and that several MB & MBP were afflicted with this issue.

Here are all the suggestions I have tried so far.

-I changed my WEP to a WPA key
-Changed WPA to WPA2
-Went to Network tab--Airport--Ethernet--Configure--From Automatic to Manual
-Tried typing in a dollar sign before the password actually begins
-Completely changed internet services
-Got a new router
-Reset the router multiple times


I have no clue what I can do anymore. Several people have tried fresh installs and to no avail it still doesn't work. I am able to access the internet but only sporadically. This problem is driving me bonkers. Can anyone please help me.

P.S. MY computer currently is always connected to power. I had the battery swelling issue and I haven't been able to replace it yet.

Silly question, but perhaps its just interference. Any chance you changed channels?

I haven't actually changed channels at all. I've seen other people try and it wasn't the issue for them.

My personal setting is automatic. Is there a particular channel I should try?

1 or 11. The middle ones tend to be jammed with the default 6/7 on most routers.

That is not the issue, I haven't been able to connect for 2 days now. Anyone have more input for me. This problem is driving me mad. I need the internet to function on this computer.


Thank you.

How does this computer work with other routers? Can you try reseting the settings on the router to the factory settings and see if it can connect? Can other computers, preferably Macs with 10.6.6 as well, connect without problem? Can you try a USB Wifi adapter on the computer and see the signal?

Factory settings drop just as much unfortunately. I originally thought it was the Verizon Modem/Router Combo so when the family switched back to Comcast I was ecstatic.

The only other computer in the house is a G5 mac.

I know the signal is going out fine in the house. Two PS3's, Two Wii's, 4 Ds', 3 PSP's, 1 360, and my brother's busted G5 all receive signals fine. Right now its using the 150mbps b/g/n.

I'll see if I can get one of those dongle's to try it out. I'm still surprised on how many other people have this issue and how there is no definitive solution.

We had Comcast, and the signal was perfect on that router, then we went Verizon, the connection was ok but nothing spectacular. After a while the signal degraded and the computer kept timing out, also it forgot my router password over and over.

At other people's houses it seems to work fine. Whenever we have a session of DnD I bring my comp to connect to their network and it works. Its been a couple of weeks since we've played though.

Just for interest give this forum a check

http://forums.macrumors.com/showthread.php?t=462668

Sigh

Ok NOW I feel your pain. I had this issue more months and months and months with my first Macbook Air. The only solution I found was to switch to channel 11 and leave all security off. This was 100% on the Air. I bought 5 routers of different brands. (Including Apple's Time Capsule). It lasts to this day with security turned on. The Air completely flakes our randomly and sometimes a reboot fixes it and sometimes does not. I have also found this is ONLY when there is wireless interference (which could include valid traffic from other devices on the same network). I am since on my third macbook air which thankfully exhibits none of the same problems. I gave the laptop to my dad, who has it working perfectly in his house with only one other wireless laptop (moms). An external dongle did not solve the issue btw...

Ok.

USB Dongle doesn't work.

Channel 11 and lack of security is no go too.

I am at my wits end right now. As a poor college student this has all my feathers ruffled. Horribly enough if I could afford it I would buy another Macbook. I am really beginning to hate broadcom.

Does anyone know of software that tests the Airport card. Its possible that mine just died but before I spring for one I would like to figure that out definitively. Right now I am sitting 5 feet from the router and the wireless works.

Is it possible that my neighbors installed something next door that kills the signal in my room. It always worked before but now it dies. Also this problem with the unit forgetting my preferred SSID and passwords is really pissing me off.

Any help please? I really appreciate the input Menace and IUG.

Usb dongle didn't work at all, or same problem?

My next step would be to take it somewhere I KNEW there wasn't interference and try it there. Don't have a place? Get some tinfoil and line your walls with it. Makes your living space a faraday cage so you know there is no outside interference. (Yes I realize this may be unrealistic)

This is the wireless sniffer I use, but it doesn't support Snow Leopard well.
kismac-ng.org/

If you hold down option while pressing the airport icon in the menubar, you get readings as well about your current connection. Perhaps try connecting to neighbor's wifi and see readings too.

The last thing to try is to get a Linux Live CD and try to get online with that. If Linux can get online, then you know it's the OS. Same for Windows, but I'm not sure if you have that setup, and then you have to buy it of course. Or install it and not activate it.

Im gonna get on this and see what these suggestions turn up. Thanks guys. I'll hopefully have a report tonight.

Does the OS 10.6.7 update help?
At least they claim: Address issues in the AirPort driver for certain devices

Sadly no, it does not. 10.6.7 strike through all my dreams.

That option trick I didn't know about. Awesome. Kismac is a really nice piece of software. Its detecting all the other connections in the area and its neat. While I am right next to the router its giving me a signal of 45 and in my room 33. The Airport signal doesn't actually see the signal till I start Kismac and when it is there, the keychain forgets the WEP key and when I type it in the connection times out. My buddy seems to think its interference in the room. I think its deeper than that. I'm thinking of Carbon Copy Cloning my hd as soon as I find my 10.5 disc and doing a fresh reinstall. Really though I think it can be resolved without it. Is there any function to Kismac I should employ?

I'll work on getting that Linux disc.

Once again thanks you guys. If you think of anything else let me know.

Any chance that your Verizon issued modem will only allow a certain number of concurrently "active" MAC addresses simultaneously? Most cable modems will allow up to five maximum if it's a wireless modem, and two maximum of it's a wired modem (your router would be the only one in use most of the time and the computer would simply point to 192.168.1.1 or whatever your router's internal address is set to).

If you are using DHCP, then it is also possible that the router AND modem (if both are set to DHCP server enabled) are trying to assign the exact same address to your machine and when they do, the computer becomes confused and well...you get what appears to be timeouts.

Wireless is convenient, until it isn't. Looks like it isn't right now.

A few more questions.
When you got a new router, was it the same brand/model?
If so, did you double check that you have the most up to date firmware?
Was it a linksys router? (I have the most problems with linksys/cisco)

In Kismet, looking at the traffic map, especially for those networks within 4 channels from your channel will give you a good idea of if there is interference.

Another tool that might help and be easier to use:
www.istumbler.net/
Look at the noise ratios. Higher noise means more collisions and more likelihood of failed connections.

If it looks like the signals are clear, I would try creating a new user account on the machine and try with the new account to see if that helps.

If it looks like the channels are clogged, I would do something that isn't "allowed." I would install DD-WRT or other similar alternative OS on my router (assuming yours is a supported model). Using this, I would set my router to channel 13. Its almost guaranteed to be in the clear as its not allowed to be used in the US by default. It is totally legal to use under 50db though, so no worries there.

Outside of that... the reformat is an idea. But I would certainly test a linux live cd first.

Hmm, well thats certainly possible with the verizon modem but unfortunately I no longer have the unit since we switched to comcast. All I know is that it was absolutely ghastly.

If it is the DHCP issue, how would I go about resolving such a thing?

The new router is a Netgear. Both units do a very interesting thing. The WEP comes on and off at times. Sometimes using iStumbler I get an unsecured setting with wireless G and then the same router occasionally comes up with wireless N. I have the newest firmwire as well. The curious thing is that the router used to work like a charm in my room but now it doesnt. Sitting next to it I get 43% with 16% noise. When N decides to switch on I get 67% and 14% noise.

I use channel 11 currently. Tomorrow I'll post up the actual model and try again from my room. Having a swelled battery really blows too. I have to shut down and move my comp to different locations just to be able to use mouse clicks with no battery.

I feel like so much headway is being made. Thank you. Lets keep going

Comcast uses motorola modems most of the time. If yours is such, 192.168.100.1 is likely the modem's internal IP. You want to set your router as follows:

DHCP connection to host (cable modem)
Internal DHCP server disabled (this is how the router talks to your computers/consoles.
Gateway server (if asked for one): Use the cable modem's internal IP.
DNS Servers): 4.2.2.2, 128.210.10.11 (OpenDNS, Purdue's DNS respectively)
WPA2 if it's available, otherwise WPA
MAC Address Filtering ON (you'll need to enter the MAC addresses of each connected device - this is a second layer of security on top of WPA keys)

Manually assign your computers/console IPs starting with 192.168.1.2 on up to however many connections you have.

NOTE: You didn't state whether or not your cable modem is also wireless. If so it WILL cause crosstalk and severe interference. Either disable its wireless component or use just the cable modem's wireless and take the router out of the picture (I suggest the former).

On your consoles/computers:

Manual IP assignments
Subnet Mask: 255.255.255.0
Gateway Server: 192.168.1.1 (or whatever the Netgear's internal IP is)
DNS Servers: Use the above listed servers to bypass Comcrap's own DNS POS servers.


Be aware that Bluetooth devices don't coexsist very well with typical B/G/N combo routers. Try disabling bluetooth on the computer closest to the router/cable modem and see if that helps.

IMO wireless isn't all it's cracked up to be. There's just not enough bandwidth and even the slightest noise makes the signal drop. But at least you have options to try. Just make sure your router and cable modem don't have the same internal IP!

Although the increased bandwidth by going to N can certainly be helpful, it may pay to downgrade to G. (and if all your devices support G, switch to G only) N takes up a wider band (more channels used) which increases the amount of potential interference.

Was your router N or pre-N? My Pre-N router used to drop to G all the time. I swear you that you are me in the past asking current me questions, as these are all issues I had. My final solution was G only, no security, MAC address filtering, with a hidden SSID. Then I made sure everything on my network was secure. I've never had a single machine log into my wireless since... I used to have people in my "secured" base station cause it used to drop the security randomly like yours. I had totally forgotten about that altogether.

Ok, I have done most of the directions listed. Here are the ones I did not do.

-I did not put Mac Address Filtering On. There was simply no option for it. Maybe there was something guised so it wasn't obvious. I don't think so though
-WPA: I didn't do this on sheer fact that for some dumb reason Nintendo DS does not support that kind of encryption. I will definitely try this should WEP continue not to work for me.

I don't know if my modem is wireless. The model is arris tm722. You are correct about the modem's address. The thing is I can't log into the modem itself. It prompts me for the password of the day. I guess this is a comcast password that changes daily.

The Netgear is a Wireless N150 WNR 1000 v.2

I did change it to G only. My computer is the only one that can really take advantage of N anywho.

There is nothing with Bluetooth enabled in my house.....except for PS3 headsets. I'm going to have to experiment with that.

Tonight I'm going to try to finish up the directions from you Squishy. Also I'll give those suggestions from you too Menace.

My friend did tell me something interesting the other day. He said that sometimes computers also broadcast the network too. I came to a conclusion that the second Drake is actually my computer. Would the name of the computer actually conflict with the name of the router.

Dumbly enough both my comp and router are named Drake5017.

Thanks a bunch you guys.